Chon Kemin Tour

Some ATMs in Bishkek dispense US dollars as well as som. Beyond the capital, ATMs are found in the few largest towns but mostly not in smaller ones, except on the northern shore of Issyk-Kul. Mastercard works in all ATMs, but Visa is still the more widely accepted card. Demirbank's red ATMs have lately been the best option for foreign cards, with moderate fees.

Exchange offices in the major cities change US dollars, euros and roubles into som. Notes must be clean, fresh and without any signs of wear. Exchange offices prefer larger notes from 50 USD and 50 EUR, and sometimes give a better rate for them.

Cards are accepted in major hotels, restaurants, large supermarkets and some museums in Bishkek and Osh, and occasionally even in taxis. Elsewhere, apart from the northern shore of Issyk-Kul, paying by card is not practical.

Always carry your passport or a notarised copy. Without proper identification you can be detained by the police.

• Robberies, some of them violent, and thefts happen especially in crowded places such as the bazaars. Take care after dark.
• Sexual harassment has been reported on public transport. Avoid walking or travelling alone, especially at night.
• Book taxis in advance from established services.
• Stay away from crowds and demonstrations.
• Watch where you step: some streets have large holes and pavements are often uneven.

• Respect local traditions, customs, laws and religious practices.
• Possessing or using narcotics is strictly prohibited.
• Do not photograph anything related to the armed forces or security services.
• Same-sex relationships are legal but not widely discussed or publicly recognised.

Smuggling makes the southern border zones with Uzbekistan and Tajikistan unstable and best avoided.

For a tourist visa, most passport holders need an invitation letter from a tourism company. Kyrgyzstan has had an electronic visa system since 1 September 2017.

Visiting border regions requires a special permit.

In late spring and early autumn the valleys, Issyk-Kul's shores and the towns are green or golden, days are pleasant rather than hot and there are fewer visitors.

This is when the high pastures, yurt camps and mountain passes are open, and trekking and horse-riding routes that are under snow the rest of the year can be reached. Days in the valleys can reach about 30°C, and nights at altitude can still be close to freezing. Summer is also the time of festivals celebrating Kyrgyz traditions.

Winters in the highlands are long and close the high passes, but it is still a captivating season. Hiking, horse riding and skiing are all possible, and yurt stays are available too.

If you rely on regular medication, bring enough for the whole trip: it can be hard or expensive to find locally.

Arrange comprehensive medical and travel insurance before you arrive. A serious accident or illness may mean emergency air evacuation to a neighbouring country.

Treat tap water and other local water as contaminated and boil it before drinking; bottled water is the safest choice throughout your stay. Be careful with unpasteurised dairy and other animal products.

Vaccinations against polio and tuberculosis are recommended before entering the country, and others may also be advisable. Ask your doctor or travel clinic.