Is there water in Kel-Suu now?
2026 season: the lake refilled in early June. Kel-Suu drained through its natural dam in spring 2026, and visitors in late May found an empty basin. By early June 2026 the lake had filled up again. In some years the lake drains like this and usually refills in early summer, so if you travel in May or June, ask us for the latest news before you go. See our Kel-Suu update from May 2026.
About Kel-Suu
Kel-Suu (officially Kol Tetiri, also written Köl-Suu or Kol-Suu) is a 10-kilometre-long lake at 3,514 metres, hidden between sheer cliffs in the Kokshaal-Too range of the Tien Shan, a few kilometres from the Chinese border. It is one of the most dramatic places in Central Asia, and one of the hardest to reach. You need a border-zone permit, a 4×4 and an experienced driver for the 5–6 hours from Naryn, and the last 8–9 km from the Kok-Kiya valley are on foot or on horseback.
In short: go between late June and early September, allow at least one night from Naryn, and check the water level before you set off (see above). Kel-Suu is easiest on one of our Kel-Suu tours, which arrange the permit, the transport, the yurt and the horses. It is also part of some of our longer Kyrgyzstan tours.
Kel-Suu at a glance
| Where | At-Bashy district, Naryn Region, by the Chinese border |
|---|---|
| Altitude | 3,514 m |
| Size | About 10 km long, 5–10 m deep depending on the season |
| Formed | By a natural landslide dam on the Kurumduk river; already visited by the scientist Fetisov in 1879 |
| Permit | Border-zone permit: about 3 working days in Naryn, about 2 weeks from Bishkek |
| From Naryn | 5–6 h by 4×4 to the Kok-Kiya yurt camps |
| Last stretch | 8–9 km on foot or on horseback |
| Season | Late May – September; best July – August |
| Yurt night | About 3,500 som per person with dinner and breakfast (2026) |
| Phone | No mobile signal; some yurt camps have internet |
| Time needed | At least 1 night from Naryn; 4–5 days from Bishkek |
Many sources claim that Kel Suu was created by an earthquake and the landslide caused by it in the 1980s, that formed a natural dam over the Kurumduk River which is about 17 km long and changes in width from 800 m to as narrow of just few meters. (You need to cross this river to reach Kel Suu.) Nevertheless, there are scientific proof telling that Lake Kel-Suu was already visited on August 28, 1879 by Alexey Mikhailovich Fetisov, a Russian scientist. His findings have been published in the “Turkestan News” in 1881, in issues 35, 37, 38, 39, 45, 46 and 51. The river from Kel Suu originates from an underground passage, meaning that the water springs out from a cave or smaller openings between the rocks on the lower side of the natural dam.
Kel Suu lake is also similar to the Merzbacher lake, meaning it can sometimes lose all its water as happened last time in the spring of 2019. (Although Merzbacher does it every year due to melting glacial dam.) By autumn 2019 it was almost full again. It drained once more in spring 2026, when visitors in late May found an empty basin (our update), but by early June 2026 the lake had filled up again. The lake is not very deep and the depth varies from 5 to 10 meters depending on the season and often freezes all the way to the bottom during winters.
Thanks for the dry lake pic al.iv.og
As quite often with alpine lakes the color of the lake can change drastically according to the light that is reflecting from the surface of the lake. The light in Kel-Suu is still something different as the high mountains around it often block the direct sunlight creating peculiar shades of lights and colors.
Wildlife
When hiking or traveling horseback in Kel-Suu area it is possible to see several species of birds and at least marmots running around to their underground holes or the Himalayan snowcocks flying away from you. Maybe not fully wild, but there are the tangled haired yaks grazing in the Kel Suu area as well. There are several birds of prey and vultures nesting in the steep cliffs of Kel Suu and it is common to see them flying here. There are also wolves but they are almost impossible to see and mostly you just see the remains of animals they have eaten. There are also beautiful mountain flowers in the Kel Suu area and they are blooming mostly only in June due to the high elevation and cold climate.
Getting to Kel-Suu
Kel-Suu lies in the Kokshaal-Too mountains of the Naryn Region, next to the Chinese border, and is reached through the Ak-Sai valley. Both roads to the lake start in Naryn, and both run through the border zone, so you need a border-zone permit and your passport for the checkpoints on the way. There is no mobile signal around Kel-Suu, but some yurt camps have internet.
Two roads from Naryn
First and most common and also shorter route is through the east side of the line of mountains between At-Bashi and the Chatyr Kul area and turns South towards the Aksay river at the end of the mountain range, next to a beautiful river valley. It takes about 5-6 hours in total to drive along the dirt road to Kel-Suu.
The second more rarely used western route is a longer road passing Tash-Rabat and the Torugart village and border to China in the south side of the Chatyr-Kul lake. This road is considerably longer both in distance and duration and it should be kept in mind that there are no possibilities for refueling, so make sure that you have enough fuel for this road (better to fill an extra fuel can for this route). Please note that this road is not always accessible due to damage to a bridge and therefore a river crossing is necessary but not always possible due to high water levels.
Both routes include rivers with suspicious bridges to be crossed and therefore the trip requires an experienced driver together with suitable car also due to the condition of the remote Kyrgyz dirt and mountain roads. On the way you will also pass the beautiful Ak Sai valley with the amazingly meandering river everchanging its path on its way to China and the Taklamakan desert. Both of the roads will take you eventually to the beautiful Kok Kiya valley where yurt villages receive tourists during the summer time.
The final, about 8-9 km part of the route from Kok Kiya to Kel Suu needs to be usually hiked or ridden with horses but some adventurous groups have also reached the lake with rugged 4WD cars but crossing the Kurumduk river is not always possible with four wheels and the swampy soils in the area prevent the drive often. During spring time (until early June) it is not possible to cross the river coming from Kel Suu by a car so hiking or horseback are the only options during this high water season. During high water season and without a horse, it might require small climbing next to the river as well to reach Kel Suu.
Acclimatizing before going to Kel Suu is also not a bad idea as it can be quite heavy to hike in the height of 3500 meters. It is recommended to stay in higher altitude at least a couple of days before coming to Kel Suu. For this purpose, visiting sights for example around Naryn or taking your time visiting the other sights on the way is a good option.
Border-zone permit
Kel-Suu lies inside the border zone, so you need a border-zone permit before you reach the checkpoints on the road from Naryn. Getting one takes about 3 working days in Naryn, or about 2 weeks if you apply from Bishkek. Carry your passport, as it is checked at each post. On our tours we arrange the permit for you, and you can also contact us for one. See Kyrgyzstan border permits for the full process.
Best time to visit Kel-Suu
Kel Suu can be visited from latter part of May till the end of September. In May it can still be quite cold though and the water level in the Kurumduk river is higher so it is harder to reach Kel Suu. Sometimes there is still some snow and ice next to the river in May and beginning of June. It might be also that the yurt villages and therefore the horses are not always yet readily in place in May so you might not have other option than to hike to the lake.
The best time to visit is from July to August when the temperatures are nice and everything is green and blooming, especially in July. It is not uncommon though to have some snow falling even during July – August due to the very high elevation. For bird watching it is also the best to visit during the warmest time. If you wish to see the beautiful mountain flowers, June is the best time. Mountain flowers in the area include for example the edelweiss and different irises.
It is also possible to visit Kel Suu in the winter time but it is a gamble as one can never be sure if the roads are open or not. If the roads are acceptable, beautiful icy lake will be waiting for you. Please do not attempt this by yourself and consult local drivers who know the region or even better, hire them to do the driving for you.
How many days do you need?
From Naryn: 2 days and 1 night at least. Drive to the Kok-Kiya valley, hike or ride to the lake, sleep in a yurt camp and return. A day trip is possible, but it is a very long day with little time at the lake.
From Bishkek: 4–5 days. Break the drive with a night in Naryn, which also helps you get used to the altitude before you hike at 3,500 m. Our Kel-Suu Lake Tour (5 days) is built this way, with a walk in the Konorchek canyons on the way to Naryn.
As part of a longer trip: the Kyrgyzstan Mountain Lake Tour with Kel-Suu (8 days) and In the footsteps of the Kyrgyz Silk Road (12 days) both combine Kel-Suu with Song-Kul.
Kel-Suu tours
Our Kel-Suu tours take care of the border-zone permit and the transport with an experienced driver. Want a custom trip from Bishkek or Naryn? Contact us.
Kel Suu Lake Tour
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Kyrgyzstan Mountain Lake Tour with Kel suu
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In the footsteps of the Kyrgyz Silk Road Tour
Follow the old Silk Road through Kyrgyzstan in 12 days, from Bishkek over high passes to the yurt camps of Song-Kol…
What to do at Kel-Suu
Kel Suu area and the Kok Kiya Valley are ideal for horseback riding, hiking and photo tours. The dam at the north end of Kel Suu offers a fantastic view of the lake with its steep cliffs, waterfalls gushing from the heights, rocky islands, hidden bays and several caves and grottoes. The high peaks around the lake reach to more than 4400 meters from the sea level and are covered by snow even in the hottest summer. The view down to the Kurumduk river valley is also worth a moment to admire to.
About two kilometers away, between the steep walls of the canyon, you can see a 50-meter high rocky island dotted with grottoes, caves and indentations. In order to see this island and the lake completely, you need to hire a boat which also gives you the possibility to visit the Kel Suu lake’s many caves that are mostly unexplored. If you venture further south along the lake by a boat, the mountains get less steep and you can find unspoilt green meadows with abundant amounts of mountain flowers and you can also walk by the beaches of Kel Suu, which is not possible in the northern end due to the steep cliffs starting straight from the lake and a glacier pouring its water to the lake through a long waterfall.
As said there are several caves in Kel Suu area. The easiest one to reach is just right after reaching the dam. It has a narrow entrance but gets bigger inside and you will find yourself in a vast hall with an “altar”. Afterwards the cave descends and gets divided into two narrow passages. There are no stalactites but the walls of the lower corridors are covered with an interesting coral reminding texture. A recent study tour by speleologists also told about many more caves in Kel Suu and also in the nearby valleys. Another bigger cave is located in an area that can be only accessed by boat. This cave is frozen from inside during the hottest summer period as well.
Where to stay at Kel-Suu
The easiest way of accommodation is to stay in the yurt camps by the end of the Kel Suu road by the river Kurumduk in the Kok Kiya valley. You can also rent horses from the shepherds here. In 2026 a night in a yurt camp with dinner and breakfast cost about 3,500 som per person. The second option is to book with an organized tour company and sleep in tent camps or with the pre-booked yurt village stays. Kel Suu can be visited with a day trip from Naryn but it really takes a whole day and does not leave time to explore the area completely. If you are feeling more adventurous, it is perfectly ok to also camp in your own tent in the area.
Practical tips
Kel-Suu is remote, high and often cold. These are the things to think about before you leave Naryn.
What to pack
As for all Kyrgyzstan, the difference in temperatures between the lowlands and the high mountain areas can be tens of degrees. While it is +40C in Bishkek, it is not rare to snow in Kel Suu even in August. Therefore, be sure to pack warm clothes too. Gloves, long underpants/thermals and rain proof clothing might all be needed. On the other hand, you might be enjoying +20C and sunshine so make sure to bring your cap and sun screen with you as well. If you plan on hiking to the lake, it is better to bring waterproof hiking boots as the soil is partly swampy and wet. Large plastic bags can also be very helpful for sitting down in the wet areas and also for extra rain protection.
Food and water
All yurt camps and camping places near Kel Suu offer breakfast, lunch and dinner. If you have any food preferences, it’s best to bring your food and drinks as there might not be that much choices with food in the Kyrgyz rural areas.
Water is also available from the yurt camps but it is good to bring your own as well, just in case. There are also some natural springs with very clear fresh water near Kel Suu but one can never be totally sure about them.
Map of Kel-Suu
Kel-Suu lies in the far south of the Naryn Region, close to the Chinese border. The map shows the lake, the Kok-Kiya valley where the road ends, and the places on the way from Naryn. Click a marker for a photo and a short description.
Kel-Suu FAQ
Is there water in Kel-Suu right now?
See the water level at the top of this page. The lake sometimes drains through its natural dam, most recently in spring 2026, and usually refills in early summer. In 2026 it had filled up again by early June.
Do I need a permit for Kel-Suu?
Yes, a border-zone permit. Allow about 3 working days in Naryn or about 2 weeks via Bishkek. We arrange it on our tours. See the permit.
How do I get to Kel-Suu from Naryn?
5–6 hours by 4×4 to the yurt camps in the Kok-Kiya valley, then 8–9 km on foot or on horseback. See getting to Kel-Suu.
Can you drive all the way to the lake?
Usually not. The Kurumduk river crossing and the boggy ground stop most vehicles at Kok-Kiya, and until early June the river is too high to cross by car.
Can I visit Kel-Suu as a day trip from Naryn?
It is possible, but it takes the whole day and leaves little time at the lake. Stay at least one night.
When is the best time to visit?
July and August. June is the best month for mountain flowers, but the river is high. The yurt camps run from about late May or June to September.
Can you take a boat on the lake?
Yes. Boats take you past the cliffs to the rocky island and to caves you can only reach from the water.
How much does a night in a yurt camp cost?
In 2026 about 3,500 som per person with dinner and breakfast. On our tours the yurt camp is included.
How hard is the hike?
About 8–9 km each way with a modest climb, but at 3,500 m. Spend a couple of nights at altitude first, for example around Naryn.
Destinations near Kel-Suu
Written by Anssi Karppinen, Central Asia Guide · Page updated