9-Day Pamir Highway Tour from Osh to Dushanbe

Some ATMs in Bishkek dispense US dollars as well as som. Beyond the capital, ATMs are found in the few largest towns but mostly not in smaller ones, except on the northern shore of Issyk-Kul. Mastercard works in all ATMs, but Visa is still the more widely accepted card. Demirbank's red ATMs have lately been the best option for foreign cards, with moderate fees.

Exchange offices in the major cities change US dollars, euros and roubles into som. Notes must be clean, fresh and without any signs of wear. Exchange offices prefer larger notes from 50 USD and 50 EUR, and sometimes give a better rate for them.

Cards are accepted in major hotels, restaurants, large supermarkets and some museums in Bishkek and Osh, and occasionally even in taxis. Elsewhere, apart from the northern shore of Issyk-Kul, paying by card is not practical.

Always carry your passport or a notarised copy. Without proper identification you can be detained by the police.

• Robberies, some of them violent, and thefts happen especially in crowded places such as the bazaars. Take care after dark.
• Sexual harassment has been reported on public transport. Avoid walking or travelling alone, especially at night.
• Book taxis in advance from established services.
• Stay away from crowds and demonstrations.
• Watch where you step: some streets have large holes and pavements are often uneven.

• Respect local traditions, customs, laws and religious practices.
• Possessing or using narcotics is strictly prohibited.
• Do not photograph anything related to the armed forces or security services.
• Same-sex relationships are legal but not widely discussed or publicly recognised.

Smuggling makes the southern border zones with Uzbekistan and Tajikistan unstable and best avoided.

For a tourist visa, most passport holders need an invitation letter from a tourism company. Kyrgyzstan has had an electronic visa system since 1 September 2017.

Visiting border regions requires a special permit.

In late spring and early autumn the valleys, Issyk-Kul's shores and the towns are green or golden, days are pleasant rather than hot and there are fewer visitors.

This is when the high pastures, yurt camps and mountain passes are open, and trekking and horse-riding routes that are under snow the rest of the year can be reached. Days in the valleys can reach about 30°C, and nights at altitude can still be close to freezing. Summer is also the time of festivals celebrating Kyrgyz traditions.

Winters in the highlands are long and close the high passes, but it is still a captivating season. Hiking, horse riding and skiing are all possible, and yurt stays are available too.

If you rely on regular medication, bring enough for the whole trip: it can be hard or expensive to find locally.

Arrange comprehensive medical and travel insurance before you arrive. A serious accident or illness may mean emergency air evacuation to a neighbouring country.

Treat tap water and other local water as contaminated and boil it before drinking; bottled water is the safest choice throughout your stay. Be careful with unpasteurised dairy and other animal products.

Vaccinations against polio and tuberculosis are recommended before entering the country, and others may also be advisable. Ask your doctor or travel clinic.

Withdrawing cash can be difficult, so carry some cash with you. There are ATMs in Dushanbe, Panjakent, Khujand, Khorog, Isfara, Istaravshan and Bokhtar (Kurgan-Tube), and even in smaller towns, but not in Murghab. Eskhata Bank in Dushanbe is a reliable choice for US dollars and has a generous limit for somoni withdrawals. ATMs may be harder to find at weekends, and ATMs that take Mastercard can be tricky to find.

US dollars and euros are widely accepted, though in rural areas without exchange offices people often prefer dollars. Changing money on the black market is illegal.

Always carry a copy of your passport's photo page, as the authorities may ask for identification.

• Avoid demonstrations and large gatherings, and stay alert in public places.
• Do not leave drinks unattended, decline drinks from strangers and keep an eye on how much you drink.
• If you are followed or harassed at the airport, report it right away to your tour agent or the consular office at the airport.
• Women travelling alone may face unwanted attention or harassment.

• Respect local traditions, customs, laws and religions.
• Smoking while walking in the street is prohibited.
• Possessing or using drugs is strictly illegal.
• Photographing anything related to the military or security services can cause trouble with the authorities.
• Same-sex relationships are not illegal, but local views are conservative and tolerance varies, especially outside the major cities.

• Vehicles are often poorly maintained and driving standards are basic. Fuel stations are rare outside the cities and emergency services may not be available, so bring what you need and expect delays.
• Roads outside the major cities are poor and some are passable only by four-wheel drive. Spring is especially hazardous because of avalanches and landslides.
• Energy and water shortages and power cuts are common, especially in winter and spring and mostly outside Dushanbe.

• Avoid the border area with Afghanistan because of the unstable security situation there.
• Kyrgyzstan and Tajikistan signed a border treaty in 2025 after the clashes of 2022, and the northern Sughd region, including Khujand, is safe to visit.
• Tajikistan is prone to earthquakes, avalanches, landslides and floods.

A permit is required to visit the Gorno-Badakhshan Autonomous Region (GBAO).

Tajikistan's borders can close at short notice. Declare large amounts of money on arrival, and show the customs declaration when you leave.

In September the markets are full of fresh produce and the landscape turns golden.

The best time to visit the Pamirs is August.

Summers are dry and very hot, up to 40°C in the lowlands. Winters can be extremely cold, down to −20°C in the mountains, and heavy snow in the west can disrupt winter routes and close the high passes.

Before you go, check that your destination can provide any medical help you might need, and make sure your travel insurance covers treatment and unexpected medical evacuation. If you are sent to a medical facility, contact your insurer straight away.

Some medicines containing codeine are strictly prohibited. Check that any medication you bring is legal, and declare all medicines and other restricted items on arrival.

Ticks are common in forests and rural areas from spring to autumn. Improperly disposed uranium and pesticides in the northern Sughd region are a possible health hazard. At a minimum, get vaccinated against hepatitis A and B and tetanus before your trip.