Pamir at a glance
The most exciting destination for travel adventurers in Tajikistan and possibly in all Central Asia is the impressive, vast, magical and truly the wildest destination of Central Asia, the Pamir. This high and remote mountain area is located in the Eastern Tajikistan and covers almost half of the total land area of Tajikistan while only about 220 000 people live in the area. In the north, the Pamir mountains meet with the Tian Shan mountains of Kyrgyzstan through the Alai valley and in the South, Pamir borders with Afghanistan and the Hindu Kush mountain range, along the Wakhan valley and the more famous Wakhan corridor that is a design of the Great game between Russia and Great Britain.
Taklamakan desert lies east from Pamir, in China, where the Eastern Pamirs suddenly falls steeply down to flat desert area with few rivers. The northern and eastern side of Pamir is also very dry and barren highland that has a drastic contrast to the lush river valleys of the Wakhan, Shokhdara and Bartang among others in the South and Southwest parts of Pamir.
- Where: the Pamirs fill most of eastern Tajikistan (the Gorno-Badakhshan region), reaching into Kyrgyzstan, Afghanistan and China. Locals call them the “Roof of the World”.
- Highlights: the Wakhan Valley along the Afghan border, the high plateau around Murghab and Lake Karakul, and the remote Bartang valley.
- Season: June to September; May and October are possible.
- Permit: you need a GBAO permit, usually issued with your e-visa (see visa and GBAO permit).
- How to travel: by 4×4 with driver, on a guided tour, or on a fixed-date group departure.
The Pamir Highway (M41)
The Pamir Highway (M41) runs about 1,250 km from Osh in Kyrgyzstan to Dushanbe, crossing the Pamir plateau at over 4,000 m via Murghab and Khorog. Its highest point is the Ak-Baital pass (4,655 m), and it is often called the second-highest international highway in the world, after the Karakoram Highway. Below: the route, how many days you need, the border, the road and the cost. For the GBAO permit, season and altitude, see Planning your trip to the Pamirs.
The main road runs from Osh to Murghab and continues west from Alichur to Khorog, but most travellers take the southern detour through the Wakhan Valley along the Afghan border and the Panj river. A third, rougher alternative between Karakul and Khorog runs through the Bartang Valley, which has some of the most amazing views and picturesque villages.
From the Pamir Highway and its alternatives you can look into China, catch a glimpse of the Pakistani mountains and wave to villagers in Afghanistan across the river in the Wakhan Valley. On the way you meet hospitable locals, hike, see wildlife, camp by lakes and rivers or eat with families in their villages.
The route and distances
| Stage | Distance |
|---|---|
| Osh – Sary-Tash | about 184 km |
| Sary-Tash – Kyzyl-Art border | about 45 km |
| Kyzyl-Art – Karakul | about 50 km |
| Karakul – Murghab | about 133 km |
| Murghab – Alichur | about 104 km |
| Alichur – Khorog | about 211 km |
| Khorog – Dushanbe | about 520 km |
The Wakhan Valley detour leaves the main road before Bulunkul and rejoins it at Khorog. It is the scenic way down along the Afghan border.
How many days do you need?
Driving the main road takes about 6–8 days. With the Wakhan Valley, rest days for the altitude and a spare day for the weather, 10–12 days is comfortable. Many travellers start in Osh and finish in Dushanbe; others start in Dushanbe, where the climb to the high plateau is more gradual.
Crossing the border at Kyzyl-Art
The Kyrgyz–Tajik border at the Kyzyl-Art pass lies at about 4,280 m. Since July 2025 foreigners no longer need special permission to use it, but you still need the GBAO permit (see visa and GBAO permit). There is no public transport, ATM or exchange office at the border.
Road conditions
“Highway” is a misleading word: much of the road is broken asphalt, gravel or even sand, and in the narrowest places two cars can barely pass. Heavy trucks to and from China wear out the remaining asphalt, landslides and floods regularly damage the road and bridges, and side routes have river crossings, so a 4×4 is essential.
The long stretch from Khorog to Dushanbe is being rebuilt. Work on the Kalai-Khumb–Vanj section resumed in July 2026 after a six-month pause, and the construction can slow traffic or close the road for a while for blasting.
Costs: on your own, with a driver or on a tour
- Shared taxis and hitchhiking: cheapest, but slow and unpredictable outside summer.
- 4×4 with driver: the most flexible.
- A tour: adds a guide, booked homestays, the permit, and an itinerary built for acclimatisation.
Our Pamir tours start from about 450 USD per person for a budget group tour with transport only, and from about 1,200 USD per person for a private 9-day Pamir Highway tour for a group of four.
It is possible to drive or even cycle the Pamir Highway on your own, but you need experience of driving in rugged mountain conditions. We recommend a local driver with a good 4×4 for safety. A tip to save on costs: fill up outside the Pamirs, in Tajikistan or Kyrgyzstan depending on your route, and carry extra fuel in containers, as fuel is expensive inside the Pamirs.
Even though the Wakhan Valley is not officially part of the Pamir Highway, the detour is well worth it for the views of Afghanistan across the Panj River, the mountains and the Wakhan sights. Most villages along the Pamir Highway and in the Wakhan have at least a few guesthouses, and larger places like Kalai Khumb and Khorog have several hotels, though their standard is still well behind the hotels in the larger cities of Central Asia.
Join our fixed-date Pamir Highway group tour from Osh to Dushanbe, or travel privately on the 9 days Pamir Highway tour.
Planning your trip to the Pamirs
This part covers the whole Pamir region – the Pamir Highway, the Wakhan, Bartang and Shokhdara valleys and the treks: the permit, the season, the altitude, where you sleep, and money.
Visa and GBAO permit
- Visa: citizens of the US, the EU and many other countries can enter Tajikistan without a visa for up to 30 days; others, including UK citizens, need an e-visa from the official portal. Visas are not issued at land borders. See our Tajikistan visa information.
- GBAO permit: needed for the whole Gorno-Badakhshan region: the Pamir Highway, the Wakhan, Bartang and Shokhdara valleys, Khorog and the treks. If you need an e-visa, tick the GBAO option in the same application (about 20 USD extra); visa-free travellers get the permit through a travel agency or the OVIR office. Carry several printed copies, as checkpoints keep one.
- Extra permits: Zorkul and Sarez need separate permits. The Zorkul permit is issued for a small daily fee by the nature reserve administration (for example through the tourism office in Khorog); the Sarez permit comes from the Committee of Emergency Situations and is rarely issued to individual travellers.
- On our tours: the permits are arranged for you.
When to visit
June to September is the main season for the whole region; May and October are possible in the lower valleys. Snow can close the high passes from October, and early snow is possible from late August.
The trekking season is shorter, from July to September. Before July there can still be a lot of snow on the trails, and the meltwater makes rivers hard or impossible to cross where there are no bridges. Trekking is still possible in October, but the nights are very cold. Little rain reaches the high Pamir plateau, so rain plays a small role. Early summer brings blooming mountain flowers and fruit trees, and autumn brings colours that move down the slopes day by day.
Altitude
The eastern plateau lies at 3,600–4,600 m; the western valleys (Khorog, Wakhan) are lower, at about 2,000–3,000 m. Altitude sickness is common if you arrive quickly from Osh, because the first night at Karakul is already at about 3,900 m. Build in a slow first day, drink plenty, and descend if you have symptoms. Talk to your doctor about medication before you go.
Where you sleep
Mostly in family homestays and simple guesthouses: shared rooms, floor mattresses, and home-cooked dinner and breakfast. There are a few hotels in Khorog, Murghab and Dushanbe. Expect limited electricity and no internet on the plateau.
Money and phones
Tajikistan runs on cash, and ATMs are rare outside Dushanbe and Khorog. Bring US dollars in small notes. A local SIM card (for example MegaFon or Tcell) works in the towns, but not in the high valleys.
Pamir tours
The Pamir Highway from Osh to Dushanbe group tour
Embark on an unforgettable 10-day journey through the breathtaking landscapes of the Pamirs, starting in Osh, the…
9 days Pamir Highway tour
This 9-day private 4x4 tour from Dushanbe follows the legendary Pamir Highway deep into the Pamir Mountains of the…
Pamir Highway and Wakhan Corridor Tour from Osh to Dushanbe
This 7-day private 4x4 tour drives the Pamir Highway from Osh in Kyrgyzstan to Dushanbe in Tajikistan – a good…
Pamir Highway and Wakhan Corridor Tour from Dushanbe to Osh
This 7-day private 4x4 tour crosses the Pamir Mountains from Dushanbe in Tajikistan to Osh in Kyrgyzstan – more than…
Pamir Highway and Bartang Valley Tour from Dushanbe
A 10-day private 4x4 loop from Dushanbe: out along the Afghan border and the Wakhan, back through the wild Bartang…
Pamir Grand Tour
Experience an extraordinary journey through the stunning landscapes of Central Asia on this 12-day tour from Osh to…
Regions of the Pamirs
- East Pamir plateau: a high, dry and barren plateau at 3,600–4,600 m around Murghab, Lake Karakul and Alichur, home to Kyrgyz herders and their yaks, with wide views and high lakes.
- Wakhan Valley: the green Panj valley along the Afghan border from Ishkashim to Langar, with fortresses, hot springs, petroglyphs and views of the Hindu Kush (see our Wakhan Valley guide).
- Bartang Valley: the most remote of the western valleys, with traditional Pamiri villages, a rough road and the way to Sarez Lake (see our Bartang Valley guide).
- Shokhdara Valley: a quieter valley east of Khorog, with villages, small fortress ruins and trekking routes over the passes to the Wakhan.
People and culture
Pamir is largely inhabited by the Pamiris, who are related to Iranians but especially the Northern Pamir and other high areas are inhabited mostly by Kyrgyz people and they all rely on animal herding as their way of life in this very high altitude area. There are few larger towns like Khorog, Iskashim and Murghab in Pamir but otherwise people live in small villages and even smaller communities and often change places according to the time of year as nomads have been doing in Central Asia for millenia. There are countless valleys between the explicit high peaks and the unattainable mountain massifs exceeding 5600 meters in height, with deep rocky gorges and the rivers at the bottom.
Most Pamiris are Ismaili Muslims, followers of the Aga Khan, and speak their own Pamiri languages, such as Shughni, Rushani and Wakhi, alongside Tajik. The Kyrgyz of the eastern plateau are Sunni Muslims. Mosques are rare in the Pamirs; instead you see shrines and Ismaili prayer houses, and homes built around the traditional Pamiri house plan with five pillars.
Long ago, Bactrians and troops of Alexander the Great walked here and later many explorers like Tamerlane, Babur, Marco Polo and a number of other pioneers, have left their traces in these majestic mountains and glaciers. Silk road traders also used to travel through the valleys of Pamir with Silk, lapiz lazuli, rubies and other valuables and there are still some ruins of the old fortifications as a reminders of those times. Most of our Tajikistan Tours focus on Pamir.
Pamir History
The Pamir Mountains are a unique region with its own Pamiri culture and historical evolution. The cultural extent of the Pamirs is not limited only to the Gorno-Badakhshan province of Tajikistan, but also stretches out to minor parts of Afghanistan and China, covering altogether the historic region of Badakhshan. The oldest known records of the Badakhshan region go back thousands of years. In antiquity, the region functioned as an important trading corridor as transport routes of the silk road passed through the Pamirs and lapis lazuli (blue colorant) was exported here already more than 5000 years ago. Through the years, Badakhshan has been controlled by many different emperors, kings and nobles (‘mirs’ in islamic tradition). There are evidence of human activities in the Kurteke area area from about 14 000 years ago. Zoroastrianism has been the prevalent religion in the area and the current Ismailism has retained some habits from the times of fire worshipping.
From the late 19th century onward, the Pamirs got involved in territorial disputes between the United Kingdom and the Russian Empire (The Great Game). Eventually, the historic Badakhshan region was divided between UK affected Afghanistan and the Russian controlled territories with the Panj river as an important natural border. The part controlled by the Russian Empire became known as Gorno-Badakhshan in 1925. In 1929, the Soviet Union attached it as the Gorno-Badakhshan Autonomous Oblast (GBAO) to the newly created Tajik SSR.
Soon after the independence of the Tajikistan from the Soviet Union in 1992, the Tajik Civil War started following unrest between local leaders in Gorno-Badakhshan and the government seated in Dushanbe. The civil war was sparked as the Tajik government intervened to suppress anti-government protests. During the civil war that eventually lasted five years, tens of thousands of people were killed while many others lost their homes. An armistice was achieved in 1997 to return the peace, which has remained since then. The war left deep traces in the memory of the Pamiris and and the recent oppression from the Tajik government towards the Pamiris has caused again some dissatisfaction in the region.
Pamir Villages
For many visitors, spending time with the locals in their villages are the most memorable events of visiting the Pamir. As the landscape, also the villages of Pamir are very different in different parts of the region. The northern and higher area villages appear like a mix of Soviet and Kyrgyz villages while the Wakhan and Bartang and other lower valley villages have retained the more traditional Pamiri, Wakhi or Tajik features.
What is common to Pamir villages is that people live mostly from the animals and the land, growing what they can in the little flat land that is available for farming or orchards. There are very many villages without road connection and electricity, but for some reason, the people coming from the more developed parts of the World, enjoy experiencing this simple village life the most.
Peaks and nature
Pamir Mountains
The Pamir Mountains are a mountain range located in Central Asia that have formed by the union or collection of the Tian Shan, Karakoram, Kunlun, and the Hindu Kush ranges that is sometimes also called a knot of mountains. Pamir peaks are among the world’s highest mountains and Pamir is quite commonly known as the “Roof of the World” (translation from Persian). The Pamir range mainly lies in the Tajikistan‘s region of Gorno-Badakhshan but some parts are in Kyrgyzstan, Afghanistan, Pakistan, Indian Kashmir and China.
Pamir Mountains hold countless glaciers including the 77 km Fedchenko Glacier, which is the longest glacier outside the Polar region. The glaciers of the Pamir are the largest water sources for all of Central Asia. They are also the source for the Pyanj and Vakhsh rivers that unite and form the Amu-Darya river providing most of the irrigation water for the extensive agricultural enterprises of Uzbekistan and Turkmenistan and flow all the way to the slowly drying Aral Sea.
The highest peaks in the Pamir mountains are:
- Ismoil Somoni Peak 7 495 m, also formerly known as Stalin Peak and Peak of Communism.
- Ibn Sina Peak 7 134 m is still more known as Lenin Peak
- Peak Korzhenevskaya 7 105 m
- Independence Peak (formerly Revolution Peak) 6,940–6,974 m (sources differ)
- Karl Marx Peak 6 726 m
- Engels Peak 6 507 m
- Mayakovsky Peak 6 096 m
Being one of the highest mountain areas on Earth, the area also has some of the harshest climates and natural extremes on the planet. The weather here is cold most of the time of the year and prevents the growth of trees and shrubs in most areas. Therefore, most of the area is only covered by grasses and shrubs, revealing the tortured geological forms of the peaks and valleys. Yearly precipitation is high, which supports grasslands but only few trees survive in the area. The main tourist season is June to September; May and October are possible. During other times the roads can be blocked by snow and it is not safe to move in the Pamirs. Especially the spring time is dangerous due to land slides.
Pamir National Park
Pamir National Park, which is also known as the Tajik National Park or Mountains of the Pamirs, covers the territory of 2,6 million hectares meaning it is more than 18% of the total area of Tajikistan, making it the largest conservation area in Central Asia. It is where Central Asia’s tallest mountain ranges, including the Hindu Kush, the Himalayas, Karakoram, Kunlun and Tien Shan meet, forming the so called “knot” of mountains. The largest part of the park lies within GBAO but it also extends west towards Jirgital in the Rasht Valley. The area is truly impressive in geology, landscapes and biodiversity. Pamir National Park has also been listed as a UNESCO World Heritage Site since 2013 for its remarkable natural value. Pamirs are the fourth highest mountain range in the world.
The park is home to various wildlife, landscapes and habitats, from arid deserts and bottomless gorges to mountain lakes, open grasslands and snow-capped alpine glacial peaks. The park holds 40 peaks with heights over 6000 m and there are three peaks reaching to over 7000 m, including Peak Somony, Peak Lenin and Peak Korenevsky. Trekkers and mountaineers are also attracted by several large glaciers like the 77 km long Fedchenko and the 27 km long Grumm-Grzhimaylo glaciers as well as the high altitude lakes like Karakul and Sarez.
The extremely diverse collection of biodiversity, mainly due to its isolation and lack of human existence, consists of more than 2 000 species of plants, of which about 100 are endemic. Species such as the “Melandrium apetalum, and Sibbaldia tetandra” have developed in such a way that they can survive the cold even at the altitude of 4 800 m.
Pamir National Park conditions & nature
Pamir National park is surrounded by still-active tectonic plates that have made the park a rather unwelcoming place for humans. Therefore, it is still home to species of incredible animals and the wildlife watching opportunities within Pamir National Park are therefore unusual.
For those interested in fishing, Pamir National Park’s rivers are home to an array of endemic fish species. With all of that on offer, it is no surprise that Pamir National Park attracts a vast amount of of scientists, researchers and biologists each year.
Pamir Wildlife
The fauna in Pamir contains rare and majestic threatened species such as Marco Polo sheep (Ovis ammon polii) Markhor (Capra falconeri) and the extremely elusive snow leopard (Uncia uncia). Additional mammalian species known to occur in the region are mountain goats, ibex (Capra ibex sibirica), brown bear (Ursus arctos), wolf (Canis lupus), red fox (Vulpes vulpes), lynx (Lynx lynx), Pallas’ cat (Otocolobus manul), stone marten (Martes foina), Altai weasel (Mustela altaica), stoat (Mustela erminea), long-tailed marmot (Marmota caudata), hare (Lepus tolai), pikas (Ochotona sp.) and a host of smaller mammals. People have with them sheep, goats, camels, cows and yaks. Horses are a rarity in Pamir but there are some.
Mountain goats can be seen sometimes also in the summer time but seeing Markhor, Marco Polo sheep and especially the snow leopard is mostly possible only during the winter time when the animals descent from the high mountains to the lower areas. Marmots are a common sight during the tourists season. In Murghab there is a snow leopard sanctuary where it is possible to see snow leopards that have been rescued to be fed and to be returned back to their original habitat after regaining their strength. This sight can be organized as a part of our Pamir tours.
Domestic animals in Pamir
Due to the extreme heights, Pamir has very few horses and people use instead donkeys or even yaks for transportation. Cows are also a rarity while goats and sheep make the largest portion of domestic animals in Pamir. Both donkey rides and yak rides are also available for tourists.
Historic sites
Fortresses of Pamir
Two millennia ago, a key route of the Silk Road traversed the Pamir region, witnessing the construction of a network of fortresses. These structures had a dual purpose: safeguarding traders from raids and protecting the empire from neighboring societies, with traders subject to taxation. Presently, only one fortress continues to serve its original function for border protection, while others have lost their significance, leaving behind scant remains of walls. Some recent findings have also provided information of civilization in the Wakhan area already 4000 years ago.
Yamchun Fortress
Yamchun Fortress stands out as the most well-preserved among these constructions, also known as Zamr-I Atisht Parasht or Kafir-Kala. Positioned between the modern borders of Tajikistan and Afghanistan in the Ishkashim district, this fortress is likely the most impressive and ancient monument in Wakhan. Associated with fire worship, indicative of prevalent Zoroastrianism during that era, the fortress may have housed a fire temple. Archaeological findings suggest its construction in the III-I centuries BCE, spanning extensive areas of the Wakhan Valley and the Hindu Kush Mountains in the northern territories of Afghanistan. The fortress takes on a triangular shape, divided into three sections. There is currently some reconstruction ongoing at the site and part of the walls and the tower have been already reconstructed.
Khakha Fortress
Khakha Fortress (Kaakha), situated on a massive 10-meter cliff, measuring 700×220 m, on the right bank of the Panj River near the Ishkashim village, is another ancient landmark in the Wakhan Valley and the broader Pamir region. Having functioned as a defensive structure on the southern side from the 2nd to the 7th century, it now exists only as ruins, providing evidence of its once robust fortification.
A portion of the Khakha fortress is repurposed as a border checkpoint for controlling the Afghanistan border and entry and photography are therefore officially prohibited in this section.
Ratm Fortress
Around 10 km from Langar, on a promontory fortified for at least 2300 years, these castle ruins are signposted off the main Wakhan road. A path of sorts leads through fields and across small streams towards this panoramic viewpoint. As one of the last (or first) views of the mighty Pyanj River, the constant companion of a journey through the Wakhan Valley, it is worth the 20-minute walk from the road to reach here.
One can also find some remains of Soviet era ammunition from the ruins as it has been also lately used by the Tajik soldiers guarding the border of Afghanistan due to the great view over the border river.
Karon Castle & city ruins
The ancient city of Karon, translating as “located at a height”, was discovered only relatively recently, in the 1990s. Of course, the locals knew about some buried ancient fortress or structure for a long time, but they did not know what historical and archaeological value it represents as its age is estimated at least 4000 years.
It is believed that the city consisted of several parts: public (temples and the central square, the citadels of the governors), living part (the people of the town lived there) and the burial complex (dakhma). In addition, a conditional stadium or field for the polo game with exact dimensions of 50 by 300 m was found. The city had a centralized water supply, ventilation and drainage system
Being at an altitude of about 1700 meters above sea level, the city was located along the caravan route and withheld an enormous advantage against any attacks. Scientists believe that the ancient city of Karon stopped to exist and its inhabitants left around the 15th century due to drying of the springs that supplied water for the city. The road up to the ruins is quite bad and can be barely driven by a 4×4 car with very steep turns of a serpentine road. It is not recommended to drive up the road. If you reach the area with the fortress ruins, the living quarters are located above this area and can be reached through the mostly paved path. Unfortunately there are no any info signs or guides telling about the details of this sight.
Other Pamir fortresses
Various lesser-known fortresses, including the one near Savnob village, Deruj Castle near Roshtqala, Mausoleum of Bekbulat near Yashil-Kul Lake, castle in Shashbuvad, Abrashim Qala and Womar fortress (a more recent one) in Rushan, contribute to the rich historical tapestry of the Pamir region. Shokhdara Valley has several ruins of smaller ruined fortresses but their condition is mostly very poor. There are also several ruins on the Afghan side of the border and many of them can be spotted while driving along the Panj river in the Wakhan Valley.
Pamir Hot Springs
The most known Pamir hot spring is the Garm Chashma hot spring and the second most popular is the Bibi Fatima hot spring. There are also many other hot springs, some of them wild, without any structures but also many with decrepit Soviet era (or even earlier) structures that are often not very clean or otherwise welcoming but still interesting for the enthusiasts. Other hot springs include at least:
- Oudzh (30 km from Ishakashim on the road from Khorugh)
- Issyk-Bulok-Madyan (10 km West of Murghab)
- Djelondi or Jelondy (about 110 km from Khorog on the road to Murghab)
- Shaimak (126 km from Murghab, near the Saka graves of Bakhbur).
- Jarty Gumbez hunting camp
- Yashilkul lake (South side of lake)
Pamir shrines
Pamir is home to probably hundreds of shrines, known also as mazars, are tied to ismaili traditions and local spiritual practices. You might also notice that there are very few mosques in Pamir. These shrines are often dedicated to saints and serve as pilgrimage sites and reflect a blend of Islamic, pre-Islamic, and local beliefs.
Pamir Petroglyphs
Pamir has an abundant amount of petroglyphs and one can also find them in suitable stony places just by walking around. The most known locations for petroglyphs are the Langar petroglyphs above the town on a steep even mountain face. Another, a more recently found location has very old petroglyphs dating to about 500 years BC is the Shakhty grotto in the high Pamirs. Other petroglyph sites in Pamir include at least Akdzhilga, Kurteke-Sai, Nayzatash, Vybistdara, Bartang and Vanch river valley sites. Pamir also holds several sun dials and other mysterious structures like graves and stone circles.
Other Pamir Sights
One can find a lot of hidden gems in Pamir but seeing many of them require a bit more time as they are not always so close to the main routes while few can be seen easily along the Pamir Highway but can be also missed without keeping your eyes open.
Holy Fish lake
Ak-Balyk, “white fish” in Kyrgyz, is a small spring-fed pond about 12 km east of Alichur, just off the Pamir Highway. The fish in its clear blue water are considered holy.
Pamir Geysir
A small geyser near Yashilkul lake in the eastern Pamir. In winter its spray freezes into a tall ice cone.
Shorbuloq observatory
An abandoned Soviet observatory at about 4,300 m near Murghab, built for infrared and cosmic-ray research in the dry, clear air of the plateau. A rough track leads to it from the Pamir Highway.
Chinese tomb near Bash-Gumbez
A small domed tomb about 3 km from Bash-Gumbez village, reached by turning south off the Pamir Highway east of Alichur. The building itself is simple, but the valley is beautiful and often has wildlife.
Zorkul lake
Zorkul lies at about 4,125 m on the Afghan border at the eastern end of the Wakhan, about 25 km long. It is protected as the Zorkul Nature Reserve, famous for its bar-headed geese and other birds, and needs a separate permit.
Buddhist stupa in Vrang
Above Vrang village (about 2,800 m) in the Wakhan stands a five-level stone monument, said to be an ancient Buddhist stupa, although some archaeologists think it was a Zoroastrian fire temple. It is freely accessible from the road.
Off the beaten path in the eastern Pamirs
Most travellers stay on the Pamir Highway, but a 4×4 and a local driver open up valleys that very few visitors see.
- Rangkul: salt lakes and sand dunes on a high desert plateau about 36 km off the highway north-east of Murghab. In summer there are yurt camps and camel trekking.
- Pshart and Madiyan valleys: the rainbow-coloured Pshart valley just north of Murghab is reached by a 25 km 4×4 track and has yurt settlements in summer. A long day’s hike over the Gumbezkul pass (4,730 m) leads to the Madiyan valley, with hot springs about 9 km up the valley.
- Shaimak: a former Great Game outpost about 126 km south of Murghab via the Ak-Suu valley, with views towards China, the Wakhan and Pakistan and a few homestays. A hired 4×4 from Murghab costs about 200 USD return. On the way are the village of Toktymush and, 7 km east of Murghab, the beehive tombs of Kunye Kurgan.
- Jarty Gumbez and the Shakhty petroglyphs: a remote hunting camp with a hot spring south-east of Alichur, run by a family from May to October (about 35 USD per night with full board). Nearby, the Shakhty cave has red Neolithic paintings of a boar hunt.
- Sary Goram and Cheshtebe: wide valleys towards the Afghan Little Pamir, with Kyrgyz family yurts in summer and a tiny hamlet of stone houses, reached only on jeep tracks.
- Koi-Tezek pass and the plateau lakes: side valleys from the 4,270 m pass with small mountain lakes, and the sulphur lake Sassykul and the salt lake Tuzkul near the Khargush junction.
- Shurali geoglyphs and the Kök-Jar viewpoint: on a track west of the road south of Lake Karakul, towards the Tanymas valley.
Many of these tracks cross rivers and can be closed by floods or landslides, and areas near the borders need extra permits, so plan them with a local driver or on a tour.
Staying in Kyrgyz yurts in summer
From about June to September, Kyrgyz herding families move with their yaks, sheep and goats to the summer pastures of the eastern Pamir plateau and live in yurts. A night with them is a simple and unforgettable way to see nomadic life: you sleep on thick felt mats and quilts around the stove, eat with the family – bread, butter, yak-milk yoghurt, tea and a hot dinner – and can join in with milking or try a yak ride.
- Where: yurt camps in the Pshart valley and at Rangkul, family yurts along the road between Murghab and Alichur (some offer yak trekking), and remote summer camps such as Sary Goram. In Murghab, the Pamir Hotel also has a yurt in its yard.
- How to arrange: most family yurts cannot be booked online. Ask a local driver or guide in Murghab, or ask us when you plan your tour.
- What to expect: no electricity or running water, an outdoor toilet, and cold nights even in July, so bring a warm layer and a sleeping bag. Pay the family for the night and the meals; a small gift is always welcome.
Trekking in the Pamirs
Pamir is the location for trekking in Central Asia for the people who enjoy breathtaking mountain views, remote villages, hidden ancient sites of Silk Road and other ancient events or locations. This being said, Pamir as a trekking destination is also demanding. The elevations of passes during the trekking routes can reach 4 or even 5 kilometers from the sea level and help is not easily available if anything would happen. Solo trekking is definitely not recommended, even for experience trekkers.
Pamir is definitely not the place for first time hikers but more experienced hikers will remember trekking here for the lifetime and having an experienced group and a guide helping you will increase the safety significantly. Many of the most interesting and authentic Pamir villages can only be reached by trekking and there are many other sights that are off the beaten path and not reachable by car. Most known locations for trekking in Pamir are the Bartang Valley, Shokhdara Valley and the Engels peak but there are countless of other routes crossing from one valley to another over the high passes between them. Trekking in Pamir is mostly recommended and safest from June to August.
Pamir FAQ
Do I need a permit for the Pamirs?
Yes. You need a GBAO permit for the whole Gorno-Badakhshan region, usually issued together with your e-visa, and separate permits for Zorkul and Sarez. See visa and GBAO permit.
Is the Pamir Highway safe?
The region is calm and the people are very welcoming. The main risks are the road, the altitude and the remoteness, so travel with a good 4×4 and an experienced driver, and check current travel advice before you go, as the area along the Afghan border has had unrest.
Do I need a guide?
Not by law, but a driver who knows the road, and a guide for the treks, make the trip much safer and easier, and they arrange homestays and permits.
Osh or Dushanbe first?
Starting in Dushanbe gives a slower climb to the high plateau and easier acclimatisation. Starting in Osh takes you to about 3,900 m at Karakul on the first night in Tajikistan.
Can I do it in winter?
Only if you are well prepared: temperatures on the plateau often fall below −20 °C, snow can close the passes, and most guesthouses are closed. June to September is the season.
Is there internet?
In Khorog, Murghab and Dushanbe, yes, and mobile data works in the towns. In the high valleys and on most of the plateau there is little or no signal.
Map of the Pamirs
The Pamir Highway, the Wakhan and Bartang valleys and the sights of the Pamirs on one map. Click a marker for a photo and a short description.
More information on Pamir Destinations & Sights
Written by Anssi Karppinen, Central Asia Guide · Page updated